Top 10 Alpine Huts on the Tour du Mont Blanc
The Tour du Mont Blanc is one of the most celebrated long-distance mountain routes in the world: 170 km, approximately 10,000 m of accumulated elevation gain, crossing through France, Italy, and Switzerland in a roughly 10–12 day circuit. The accommodation ranges from village hotels and camping to high mountain refuges and rifugi above 2000 m. The huts below are the ones that define the alpine character of the route — the nights you remember because of the position, the food, or the approach. All are visible on the map.
1. Rifugio Elisabetta, 2195 m — Val Veny, Aosta Valley
Often cited as the finest evening on the TMB, the Rifugio Elisabetta sits above the Val Veny below the Miage Glacier with a direct view of the entire southwest face of Mont Blanc. The approach from Courmayeur via Les Chapieux or directly from the Val Veny road takes 2.5–4 hours depending on start point. The kitchen has a strong reputation for Valdostana cooking — polenta, fontina- based dishes, and the best house wine of the Italian section. CAI Courmayeur affiliated, capacity around 100.
2. Rifugio Bonatti, 2025 m — Val Ferret, Aosta Valley
In the upper Italian Val Ferret above the Grand Col Ferret pass, the Rifugio Bonatti was named for Walter Bonatti — one of the greatest alpinists of the 20th century — in 2009. At 2025 m it sits on one of the most beautiful stretches of the entire TMB, with open views to the main range and a route that traverses high above the valley floor. CAI Valle d'Aosta section, capacity around 80, full half-board. Reservations in July–August fill in March and April.
3. Rifugio Bertone, 1989 m — Courmayeur side, Val Ferret
Above Courmayeur on the hillside approaching the TMB's Italian sector from town, the Rifugio Bertone sits at a panoramic position with views back toward the Grandes Jorasses north face. Reached from Courmayeur in about 2 hours. This is typically a rest-day lunch stop or the first overnight after the Grandes Jorasses traverse stage. Capacity around 60.
4. Refuge des Mottets, 1870 m — Les Chapieux, Savoie
The last French overnight before the Grand Col Ferret and the descent into Italy. The Refuge des Mottets sits in a remote upper valley position with no road access, which gives it a genuinely isolated character despite the large number of TMB walkers passing through. Capacity around 60, FFCAM-affiliated, with a strong tradition of home-cooked Savoyard food. The approach from Les Chapieux takes about 1.5 hours on clear trail.
5. Refuge du Col de la Croix du Bonhomme, 2443 m — Beaufortain, Savoie
At the high point of the TMB's southeastern loop, above the village of Les Contamines, this refuge sits at 2443 m at one of the most exposed positions on the route. The approach from Les Contamines via the Notre-Dame de la Gorge chapel and the Bonhomme valley is a full-day stage of 6–7 hours. Capacity around 120, FFCAM-affiliated. The descent from here toward Bourg Saint Maurice via Cormet de Roselend is an alternative route option on the TMB.
6. Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme, 2433 m — Beaufortain
Adjacent to and sometimes confused with the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme refuge, this hut covers overflow and provides an alternative sleeping option on the busiest stage of the French TMB. The two refuges together hold around 160 people — which can still be insufficient in peak July weeks. Book both options early and have a confirmed reservation before committing to this stage.
7. Refuge Robert Blanc, 2750 m — Beaufortain, highest point of standard TMB
The highest TMB refuge on the standard route, at 2750 m above Bourg Saint Maurice in the Beaufortain. The approach is steep and the position exposed, but the view of the Mont Blanc massif from this angle — looking northeast — is one of the best panoramic positions on the route. Capacity around 60.
8. Refuge de Lac de Bellachat, 2152 m — Les Houches, Savoy
On the high balcony above Les Houches on the TMB's final approach to Chamonix, the Bellachat sits at 2152 m with a direct view of the Mont Blanc chain that concludes the circuit. This is typically the penultimate TMB overnight before the descent to Chamonix via the Brévent ridge. Capacity around 50, with a strong position on the route logic.
9. Refuge des Prés, 1860 m — Vallorcine, Chamonix Valley
In the Vallorcine section of the TMB's final Swiss-to-French section, the Refuge des Prés provides a mid-stage overnight between the Col de Balme and Chamonix, avoiding a long single stage into town. Capacity around 40.
10. Champex-Lac Area Options — Valais, Switzerland
Champex-Lac (1466 m) is the main village overnight on the Swiss sector, sitting above the Orsieres valley. The village has multiple accommodation options including the Auberge de la Forêt and several alpine club huts on the surrounding plateau. The Fenêtre d'Arpette variant — bypassing Champex via a demanding high pass — is one of the hardest and most rewarding TMB variants, descending to Trient after crossing rocky terrain above 2665 m.
TMB booking realities
The TMB is one of the most heavily booked routes in the Alps. July and August reservations should be confirmed by March or April. Cancellation policies vary; the weather-clause is your main protection if a named storm forces a stage to change. The July–August peak season has 20,000+ walkers completing the route annually, and hut capacity has not grown proportionally. The shoulder season (mid-June and September) offers the same terrain with a fraction of the logistical pressure.
The anti-clockwise direction
The standard TMB direction is typically given as either clockwise (Les Houches — Chamonix — Italian side — Swiss side — back to Les Houches) or anticlockwise (the reverse). The common guidebook recommendation (Cicerone's Tour of Mont Blanc by Kev Reynolds) describes the anticlockwise direction as the standard. The practical difference is which side of the mountain you see at dawn and which you see at dusk — the Italian approaches offer strong morning light on Mont Blanc, while the French approaches offer afternoon light on the Aiguilles from the Chamonix side.
More important than direction is the stage-by-stage adaptation that all TMB walkers make to conditions. Weather closes passes, huts occasionally are temporarily full due to group bookings, and the standard 10 or 11 stages can be split or combined. Having flexibility in the itinerary — and not having booked non-refundable accommodation at the end of each stage — is practical insurance for a route where the weather controls the schedule.
Altitude and fitness preparation
The TMB rises to approximately 2665 m at the highest pass (Fenêtre d'Arpette variant) and 2516 m at the Grand Col Ferret. Most passes are between 2200 m and 2600 m; none are at altitudes likely to cause serious acclimatisation problems for sea-level visitors. The challenge is cardiovascular: 12,000 m of cumulative elevation gain in 11 days at continuous hiking pace is demanding. A training block of 6–8 weeks of sustained uphill walking with a 10–12 kg pack is reasonable preparation.
Keep exploring
TMB huts — including those in all three countries (France, Italy, Switzerland) — are plotted on the Open the map. Use it to plan your overnight sequence and identify the high passes between stages.